Bistro Margaux is a corner room with a zinc bar and the same forty seats it opened with. Margaux runs the floor; Bruno has cooked the same short menu for fifteen years and changes it only when the market makes him. Nothing here is reinvented — it's the cooking of a good Tuesday in Paris, done properly. The ardoise by the door is the day's news; the frites are cut in-house every afternoon. If a dish has a story, tap it — I know most of them.